View Full Version : Scanmaster 3 Install Question
12-19-2008, 11:08 PM
I was wondering where to put my red wire for power? It seems I have a fuse in every slot. Can it share a power source with a fuse? The install guide points to the bottom right fuse as the "power". I would asume that means pull that fuse and use it for the power for the scanmaster?
Let me know.
12-19-2008, 11:45 PM
Also, after taking out the fuse mentioned (it was blowen, lol) I got power to the scanmaster. I noticed it stays on when I turn my car off. How does the scanmaster shut down?
12-20-2008, 05:45 PM
what kind of car?
12-20-2008, 07:15 PM
1992 Plymouth Laser RS AWD Turbo
01-05-2009, 06:59 PM
I finally got the logging software to work, and I was going to do some logging. But I'm still having problems with the power.
1) How do you correctly supply power to the scanmaster??? Does a fuse need to be removed to get power to the scanmaster? or is there an open place I should use?
2) After the scanmaster has power, and the car is turned off, the scanmaster is still on. I tested this when I had to run inside for 10 mins and came outside and the scanmaster was still on.
I really need to get this going.
01-05-2009, 07:11 PM
Sorry for the lag in responding. I was able to check this over the weekend.
The Scanmaster 3 for the DSM's does not automatically power itself down, as it is designed to be powered from a switched source.
The instructions indicate the location of the power feed for the scanmaster, which I believe is an empty fuse location. If you have no empty fuse locations in your fusebox, it is possible there is a fuse installed where it is not needed. Or perhaps your car has a lot of options and has every fuse location filled.
If the second is the case, you can get piggyback adapters for automotive fuses that will let you tap a circuit into a fusebox. I think I saw them at Radio Shack years ago. Alternatively you could tap power from the power feed going to the cig lighter (was a switched circuit in my Stealth...) or radio or similar.
Let me know if these suggestions don't solve it for you.
01-06-2009, 06:53 PM
Thanks for your reply Bob.
I'm sure you can tell I'm amped to get this thing perma installed!
You could be right about the fuse box being over fused. The person who owned the car before me did some funny stuff to it, so I wouldn't be surprised if there were some un-needed fuses in there.
This piggyback adapter you are talking about.. would this power down the Scanmaster when I turned my car off?
Thanks again, I'll look into these solutions ASAP and let you know if I have any problems.
01-06-2009, 07:01 PM
This is one place I found that had something like what you are talking about:
An innovative add-a-circuit, two slot fuse plug that provides a wire lead for splicing portable electronic devices (up to 10 amps) into the fuse block. One slot accepts the original vehicle fuse. The other accepts the fuse for a phonr, fax, radio, etc., eliminating the need for an additional fuse holder.
ATC-PLUG (http://www.sherco-auto.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=BASK&Store_Code=SHERCO&Action=ADPR&Product_Code=ATC-PLUG&Attributes=Yes&Quantity=1) $6.95
ATM-PLUG (http://www.sherco-auto.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=BASK&Store_Code=SHERCO&Action=ADPR&Product_Code=ATM-PLUG&Attributes=Yes&Quantity=1) $6.95
What do you think?
01-06-2009, 07:12 PM
Here is another one:
01-06-2009, 07:48 PM
either one of those will work.
If you use a circuit that is live only with the key on then your issues will be solved.
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